Growth factor and exosome serums are some of the most talked-about products in skincare, often marketed as the perfect partners for microneedling. They're also expensive, and the claims can be bold. Here's a balanced look at what they are, what the evidence says, and how to decide whether they're right for you.
The short answer: growth factors and exosomes are substances involved in how cells communicate and repair. Early research is interesting, but evidence for at-home use is still limited, and products vary widely in quality and sourcing. If you try one, choose a reputable brand, check it's intended for use around microneedling, patch test first, and remember that hyaluronic acid alone is a perfectly good partner.
What are growth factors?
Growth factors are proteins that help regulate how cells grow and repair. Your skin produces its own, especially after microneedling. Skincare growth factors may come from human cells grown in a lab, plants or other sources.
What are exosomes?
Exosomes are tiny particles released by cells that carry signalling molecules between them. Skincare exosomes may be derived from human stem cells, plants or other sources. They're a newer area, and the science is still developing.
What does the evidence say?
| Growth factors | Exosomes | |
|---|---|---|
| Research so far | Some small studies, mostly in clinics | Early-stage and limited |
| Product consistency | Varies by brand and source | Varies widely |
| Cost | Often high | Often very high |
Many studies are small, short-term or funded by manufacturers. That doesn't mean these products don't work, but it does mean bold claims should be treated with caution.
Safety questions to consider
- Applying to freshly needled skin means more of the product is absorbed, so quality and sterility matter.
- Sourcing varies: check where ingredients come from and how they're made.
- Some products aren't intended to be used with microneedling. Check the label.
- Clinic-only products shouldn't be used at home.
If you'd like to try one
- Choose a reputable brand with clear information on ingredients and sourcing.
- Check it's suitable for use after microneedling.
- Patch test on normal skin first.
- Use it after your session, not as the glide. Use plain hyaluronic acid during microneedling.
- Use a freshly opened, sealed product.
- Stop if you notice stinging, redness that gets worse, or a rash.
The simple alternative
You don't need expensive serums to get results from microneedling. Your skin produces its own growth factors in response to a session. A simple, fragrance-free hyaluronic acid serum, a barrier-supporting moisturiser and daily SPF are all you really need. See microneedling with hyaluronic acid.
Keep it simple with Olapen
We designed Olapen to make microneedling straightforward, without needing a cabinet full of expensive products. See what to use with your Olapen for our recommended essentials.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need growth factor serums for microneedling?
No. Hyaluronic acid and a good moisturiser are enough.
Are exosome serums safe?
Quality varies. Choose a reputable brand, check it's suitable for microneedling, and patch test first.
Can I use them as a glide?
Use plain hyaluronic acid as your glide.
Are they worth the money?
Evidence is still limited. They're an optional extra rather than an essential.
What does the skin produce after microneedling?
Your skin releases its own growth factors as part of its natural renewal response.
The bottom line
Growth factor and exosome serums are an interesting, developing area, but they're optional. If you try one, choose carefully, patch test and use it after your session. Otherwise, keep it simple and let your skin's own renewal do the work.
Microneedling and nanoneedling are cosmetic procedures. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any medical condition. If you have a skin condition or any concerns, speak to a healthcare professional.