Fine vertical lines above and around the lips are a common sign of ageing, and they can make lipstick bleed and the mouth area look tired. The skin here is delicate and moves constantly, so it needs careful technique. Here's how to use microneedling to help soften the look of lip lines safely.
The short answer: microneedling with a 9-pin cartridge at 0.6mm can help lines around the mouth look softer over a course of sessions. Work on the skin above and around the lips, never on the lips themselves, keep the skin taut, go slowly, and repeat every four weeks.
Why lip lines form
- Repeated movement: talking, smiling, pursing, drinking through straws
- Collagen loss with age
- Sun exposure, as the upper lip area is often forgotten with SPF
- Smoking, which combines repeated pursing with collagen damage
- Dryness, which makes lines more visible
Why the 9-pin cartridge
The area around the mouth is small, curved and sensitive. A 9-pin cartridge has a compact head that follows the contours precisely, so you can work right up to the lip line without straying onto the lip. With fewer needles, it's also more comfortable on this sensitive area.
Where to work
| Work on | Avoid |
|---|---|
| The skin above the upper lip | The lips themselves |
| The skin below the lower lip | The inside of the mouth |
| The corners of the mouth | Cold sores, cracks or broken skin |
Technique, step by step
- Remove all lip products, cleanse and pat dry.
- Disinfect your skin, hands and pen and let everything dry.
- Attach a new, sealed 9-pin cartridge and set 0.6mm and a low speed.
- Apply a thin layer of hyaluronic acid above and below the lips.
- Keep the skin taut. Gently press your lips together, or stretch the skin with a finger.
- Glide in short strokes across the lines, then along them. Work up to, but not over, the lip line.
- Keep passes to a minimum; this area is sensitive.
- Finish with hyaluronic acid and a fragrance-free moisturiser. Use a simple balm on the lips themselves.
Repeat about every four weeks, for a course of 3 to 6 sessions.
If you get cold sores
Microneedling near the mouth can sometimes trigger a cold sore in people who get them. Never microneedle while a cold sore is present, and if you get them often, speak to a pharmacist about whether to use something preventive beforehand.
Aftercare
- Avoid lipstick and lip liner for 24 hours.
- Use a fragrance-free lip balm on the lips.
- Avoid hot drinks for a few hours and spicy food that day.
- Apply SPF above the lip every day.
Daily habits that help
- Wear SPF on the upper lip area.
- Keep lips and the skin around them moisturised.
- Drink from a glass rather than through a straw where you can.
- Use retinol around the mouth on other days, if your skin tolerates it.
Precise care with Olapen
Olapen's 9-pin cartridge is designed for small, detailed areas like the upper lip. For the rest of the face, see microneedling for wrinkles and fine lines.
Frequently asked questions
Can microneedling help lip lines?
It can help them look softer over several sessions.
Can I microneedle my lips?
No. Work only on the skin around them.
Which cartridge is best for lip lines?
The 9-pin cartridge at 0.6mm.
Can microneedling trigger cold sores?
It can in people who get them. Speak to a pharmacist if this applies to you.
How long until I see results?
Usually after 3 to 6 sessions.
The bottom line
With a precise 9-pin cartridge and careful technique, microneedling can help soften the look of lines around the mouth. Stay off the lips, keep the skin taut, go gently, and protect the area with SPF every day.
Microneedling and nanoneedling are cosmetic procedures. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any medical condition. If you have a skin condition or any concerns, speak to a healthcare professional.