Microneedling has gone from a clinic-only treatment to one of the most talked-about steps in at-home skincare. But if you're new to it, the idea of putting tiny needles near your face can sound a little daunting. This guide explains what microneedling actually is, how it works, what it can and can't do, and how to decide whether it's right for you.
The short answer: microneedling uses a device covered in very fine needles to make thousands of tiny, controlled channels in the surface of the skin. Your skin responds by renewing itself, which over time can improve the look of fine lines, texture, pores, marks and dullness. It's also used on the scalp to improve the look of thinning hair.
How microneedling works
Your skin is constantly repairing and renewing itself. Microneedling makes use of that natural process.
When fine needles briefly enter the skin, they create micro-channels that are far too small to see once they close. Your skin treats these as tiny signals to get to work. It sends repair messengers to the area and starts producing fresh collagen and elastin, the proteins that keep skin looking firm, smooth and springy.
This is why you'll often hear microneedling called collagen induction therapy. It doesn't add anything to your skin. It encourages your skin to do more of what it already does.
There's a second benefit too. For a short time after a session, those micro-channels let skincare products sink in far more effectively than usual. That's why what you apply during and after microneedling matters so much (more on that below).
For a deeper look at the science, see our guide to how microneedling works.
A quick history
Microneedling isn't a new trend. Dermatologists first described needling the skin to improve the look of depressed scars in the mid-1990s. In the early 2000s, plastic surgeons developed the first handheld rollers covered in fine needles, and the technique quickly spread through clinics worldwide.
Since then, rollers have largely been replaced by microneedling pens, which move the needles straight in and out of the skin rather than rolling them across it. Pens give more even, precise results, and adjustable depths mean they can be used safely on different areas of the face and body.
What can microneedling help with?
Microneedling is popular because it's versatile. It's most commonly used to improve the look of:
- Fine lines and wrinkles, especially on the forehead, cheeks and around the mouth
- Uneven texture and enlarged-looking pores
- Acne marks and textured skin, once breakouts have settled
- Dark spots and uneven tone, alongside daily SPF
- Dull, tired-looking skin
- Stretch marks and scars on the body
- Thinning hair, when used on the scalp
Results build gradually, and they vary from person to person. Microneedling improves the look of these concerns over a course of sessions; it isn't an instant fix, and it won't make deep scars or lines disappear completely.
Microneedling vs nanoneedling
You may also see nanoneedling mentioned alongside microneedling. They're related, but not the same.
| Microneedling | Nanoneedling | |
|---|---|---|
| How it works | Fine needles create micro-channels in the skin | Ultra-fine pins work on the very surface without breaking it |
| Best for | Lines, texture, marks, stretch marks, thinning hair | Glow, product absorption, sensitive skin, around the eyes |
| Downtime | Redness for 1 to 3 days | Little or none |
| How often | Every 2 to 6 weeks, depending on area | Every 1 to 2 weeks |
Many people use both: nanoneedling for regular glow and gentle maintenance, and microneedling every few weeks for deeper texture work. Read more in What Is Nanoneedling?
At home or in a clinic?
Clinic microneedling is carried out by a trained practitioner, often at deeper settings, and typically costs from around £150 to £300 a session in the UK. At-home microneedling uses shallower, gentler depths, so each session is milder, but you can keep up a regular routine for a fraction of the cost.
For most everyday concerns, such as fine lines, texture, pores, dullness and thinning hair, a good-quality pen used carefully at home can deliver steady, visible improvements. Deeper concerns, like significant scarring, are best discussed with a professional. Our guide to microneedling at home covers this in detail.
Does microneedling hurt?
At home-use depths, most people describe microneedling as a light prickling or vibrating sensation rather than pain. Bony areas like the forehead and jawline tend to feel more sensitive than the cheeks. Starting at the lowest depth and speed, keeping the skin taut and using a hydrating glide serum all help make sessions more comfortable.
What to expect after a session
- Straight after: pink or red skin, like a mild sunburn, and a feeling of warmth or tightness.
- Days 1 to 3: redness fades. Skin may feel dry or flake lightly.
- After a week: many people notice a fresher, brighter look.
- After 3 to 6 sessions: improvements in texture, lines and marks become more visible, because new collagen takes weeks to form.
Our aftercare guide explains exactly what to do, and avoid, in the first 72 hours.
Who shouldn't microneedle?
Microneedling isn't right for everyone. Hold off, or speak to your GP or a dermatologist first, if you have active breakouts, broken or sunburnt skin, a cold sore in the area, a tendency to form raised scars, are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have used isotretinoin in the last six months. Our safety guide has the full list.
How to get started
If you'd like to try microneedling at home, the most important things are a reliable pen with adjustable depth, sterile single-use cartridges and clear guidance on how to use them.
That's exactly why we created Olapen: a cordless pen with adjustable depth and five speeds, paired with sterile, individually sealed cartridges for every area, from a gentle Nano cartridge for beginners to larger heads for the scalp and body. Not sure where to begin? Our cartridge guide helps you choose, and Your First Session walks you through it step by step.
Frequently asked questions
Is microneedling safe?
When done with sterile equipment, at the right depth and with good aftercare, microneedling is a well-established cosmetic treatment and most side effects are mild and short-lived. It isn't suitable for everyone, so read our safety guide first.
How long does it take to see results?
Some people notice a brighter, smoother look within a week. Changes in lines, texture and marks usually take a course of 3 to 6 sessions, spaced about four weeks apart on the face.
How often should I microneedle?
On the face, about once every four weeks with needle cartridges. Nanoneedling can be done every one to two weeks. See how often to microneedle.
What should I put on my skin after microneedling?
Keep it simple: a gentle hyaluronic acid serum, a fragrance-free moisturiser, and SPF the next day. Avoid retinoids, exfoliating acids and strong vitamin C for at least 72 hours. See what to use with your Olapen.
Can I microneedle my scalp?
Yes. Scalp microneedling is a popular way to improve the look of thinning hair. It uses different depths and cartridges from the face. See microneedling for hair thinning.
The bottom line
Microneedling works with your skin's own renewal process to gradually improve the look of lines, texture, marks and thinning hair. It takes patience and consistency, but with the right tools and a careful routine, it's one of the most effective steps you can add at home.
Microneedling and nanoneedling are cosmetic procedures. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any medical condition. If you have a skin condition or any concerns, speak to a healthcare professional.
